Civic Si Coupe Re-Build . . . . . .Will I Ever Learn?

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  • AntMan401

    Civic Si Coupe Re-Build . . . . . .Will I Ever Learn?

    Starting next Month (November) I am putting my Car away at my Girlfriends Mother House and commencing a build-up for the upcoming Race Season. I plan on attending many Auto-X, Driving Schools, and Road Racing Events, and after the 1 Event I did this past September, I now know what improvements my Car needs in order to perform at its best.

    What I have in mind is too basically start with the simple/cheap stuff (work that can be done with minimal to no money at all) then later work on the other stuff that will require more Money. Theres a lot of current stuff that needs to be fixed and cleaned up. Then theres the other part of the build where I will compile the rest of the parts needed to 100% Complete the Car.

    In the next couple of Months, things should start to get REAL interesting. I'm going to be doing things ranging from New simple bolt-ons, Wire Tucking, Race Preparation, custom Front and Rear Splitters, and other things to get ready for next Year. My Goal, if I can complete it, is to have a Car that is 100% ready to perform well at any Road Race that I attend. All of the elements will be there, Suspension, Braking, Power, and don't forget, Driving Skills (those will be worked on when the Season begins an I get some seat time with an instructor at some Driving Schools)

    So . . . check back as frequent as possible because in the next Week or so I should start things up and have plenty of pictures and info on the Project.

    Ant
  • AntMan401

    #2
    Phase I: the Easier/Cheap Stuff

    Heres what I have planned for the next Month or 2.

    Motor/Trans will be Removed along with the Power Steering and Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoirs. The Whole Assembly will be thoroughly cleaned and possibly Painted. A minor Wire Tuck. Nothing too crazy since this Car is going to be Raced, but there are some Wiring that needs to be cleaned up a little. I'm also going to be building a Battery Relocation kit to put my Battery in the Trunk. I'm also going to wire up a Kill Switch that will be mounted on the Rear Bumper. I need to make some better Upper and Lower Radiator Brackets to secure my GSR Radiator. I need to pick up some Upper and Lower Timing Belt Covers because I lost mine. I'll probably cut the upper one to get access/show-off the Cam Gears Finish my Valve Cover. For a while now my Hondata has been acting up. The Red LED Light constantly blinks. According to Hondata there may be an issue with the Interface Box. I am unable to get a Connection when attempting to connect to the Interface Box and that could cause some issues int he future when I want to Re-Tune the Motor. So while the Motors out and I have some down time, I'm going to ship out my ECU and Interface Box and see whats up. I also want to build some type of ECU Mounting Bracket. Kind of like the Mugen Bracket for the K Series ECU's.

    Other stuff consists of regular routine Maintenance like a new Head Gasket, Spark Plugs, Spark Plug Wires, Fresh Oil change, Trans Fluid change, and Coolant Flush. You know, the basic #!#!#!#!.

    Comment

    • JJ The Butcha
      Dan's the stigs gay lover
      • Oct 2007
      • 4990

      #3
      what year si?
      2013 Ford Focus ST

      Originally posted by WTFWBBD?
      you would blow the name Ballistics if it had a cock.
      Josh Tate 11/21/89 - 4/1/08

      Comment

      • AntMan401

        #4
        2000.

        Comment

        • vsm96ek
          pylon whore
          • Oct 2007
          • 122

          #5
          my question is what do you need beside tires? and maybe a better suspension setup? why pull the motor. is there issues with it? im trying to make heads and tales of alot of the stuff you said that i dont see the need to do. i havent driven or herd of any issues relating to your car so im just trying to get a better understanding..

          if there's nothing wrong then ide fix whats needed like tires and a suspension(if needed)brakes are simple with a good set of hawk pads. all the rest of the stuff just sell it off....leave the battery where it is, helps with the corner weight.

          if your die harded to run as many events next year save your money, and put it towards you the driver, the car is just a machine, the skill is within the driver.....

          ive only changed a few things myself. but that was it. my main concern for next year was new longer lug studs and new rear trailing arm bushings since mine are shot to s**t. i upgraded to a cheap skunk2 copy manifold to maybe gain some throttle response from the restricted manifold... other then those items that ive got thats it.......the rest is going into me for 3 diffrent clubs ive registered as a member for.

          but yeah im just trying to understand a bit more about the extensive amount of redo work you mentioned.

          96 ek vsm hatch.
          privateer builder
          privateer autocrosser
          E-PREPARED
          fcscc#691
          c.a.r.t#314
          joe

          Comment

          • AntMan401

            #6
            Joe, here are the things that I REALLY need.

            Shifter Bushings - Mine are old and shot and I have a difficult time shifting. I hear a lot of metal to metal contact when I shift. Checked the bushings and they are bad.
            Rear Upper Strut Bar - Going with the Weapon R Trunk Brace
            Blox Rear Sway Bar End Links - I'm literally missing my Drivers Side Comptech End Link
            Omni Power Sport Coilovers - Well . . . . I'm still on Stock Shocks sad.gif
            Front and Rear Camber Kits - In the future, I'd like to test different settings and see which works best
            Roll Cage/Roll Bar - Hopefully yours wink.gif If not then going with Auto Power either way
            I'm going to make a Vinyl Number Plate for both my Doors. I've designed one myself already. Just need to get it cut. Along with an assortment of Magnetic Numbers
            4 Cheap Tires for my Polished TE-37 Copys to be used as Dailys. Probably going with Kuhmo Ecsta SPT Tires
            2 Wheels for 2 R-Compound Tires
            I need 1 Lug Nut (I lost one of my Buddy Club Lug Nuts so I'm just gonna get a Skunk2 because they look exactly alike and I can't just buy 1 BC Lug Nut but can with Skunk2)
            New Rear Rotors
            Slapping some Grip Tape on my Pedals . . . Screw Mugen wink.gif
            Hook up my Oil Pressure Gauge
            Get an Oil Temp Gauge

            Those are the things I really need done before the Season starts. I have other things that I want to get but they aren't as important as the above listed and can wait.

            I'm pulling the Motor because, well, its filthy. I drove around for over 2 Years with a broken CV Boot and it sprayed Grease EVERYWHERE. theres so much Grease in my Engine Bay. Also, I don't know if maybe my Oil Pan Gasket is bad but I'm leaking oil somewhere too. not a lot. Actually, not that much where I am worried. then theres little things like all my wiring is messed up when I put in a new Fuel Injectors, my Exhaust is rattling (i think a hanger is broken or lose somewhere), Radiator is falling off the crappy brackets I made for it. Just a bunch of #!#!#!#! thats been falling apart that I never fixed. I guess I see where your going about the Motor being pulled though. I think before I do that I will try to clean it the best I can while its still in the Bay. I did want to replace the Head Gasket though so pulling the Head will give me a lot of room to clean.

            Tires and Suspension are a must. But also, the Car has been running funny since the Hondata started acting up so that definitely needs to be taken care of. I have Hawk Pads in the Front and brand new Auto zone Pads in the Rear. I always thought that the Battery in the Rear makes for better weight considering all the Wait is in the Front of the Car anyways? Maybe I'm wrong . . or confused.

            Yea, I'm definitely serious about doing a lot of driving next Season. And I do plan on going to a couple of those Driving Schools.

            Hope that explains a little to you Joe. If you have any suggestions, PLEASE give me your input.

            Comment

            • vsm96ek
              pylon whore
              • Oct 2007
              • 122

              #7
              ohh okay. ill try to re-read again for input later on.

              96 ek vsm hatch.
              privateer builder
              privateer autocrosser
              E-PREPARED
              fcscc#691
              c.a.r.t#314
              joe

              Comment

              • mighty mouse
                Learner's Permit
                • Oct 2007
                • 88

                #8
                maybe it's just me, but I don't see why you're pulling the motor either? It seems like a ton of unnecessary work. Weren't you trying to part this thing out? What happened, you're keeping it now?
                298.6whp - 270ft/lbs - 8500 RPM

                Coast Works est. 2010

                Comment

                • AntMan401

                  #9
                  the Main reason I was pulling the Motor was to clean it. But I'm looking at it as starting fresh. I have a very small budget and little time, if I'm doing something, then trust me, its not unnecessary.

                  I was trying to sell it. No one wanted to give me what I wanted for it. Was gonna part it out but had a change of heart. Its not easy getting rid of a 35 thousand dollar investment for 9 grand

                  Comment

                  • mighty mouse
                    Learner's Permit
                    • Oct 2007
                    • 88

                    #10
                    Originally posted by AntMan401
                    the Main reason I was pulling the Motor was to clean it. But I'm looking at it as starting fresh. I have a very small budget and little time, if I'm doing something, then trust me, its not unnecessary.

                    I was trying to sell it. No one wanted to give me what I wanted for it. Was gonna part it out but had a change of heart. Its not easy getting rid of a 35 thousand dollar investment for 9 grand

                    glad you're keeping it. I still don't see why you're pulling the motor...ha Can't you get at everything from above and below the car? You just wanted a crack at the mita huh, that's the real reason you're keeping it
                    298.6whp - 270ft/lbs - 8500 RPM

                    Coast Works est. 2010

                    Comment

                    • AntMan401

                      #11
                      I donno, when I see myself pulling it and putting it back in nice and clean and perfect, I almost see it as a fresh start, new beginning type of thing. I am going to try to attack the mess with the Motor in first though.

                      My Friends thinking about picking up a Miata. Those things are like ****ing squirrels now. All over the ****ing place

                      Comment

                      • mighty mouse
                        Learner's Permit
                        • Oct 2007
                        • 88

                        #12
                        good maybe he'll buy some of my stuff
                        298.6whp - 270ft/lbs - 8500 RPM

                        Coast Works est. 2010

                        Comment

                        • AntMan401

                          #13
                          UPDATE

                          Took the Car for one last ride last night to see if anymore problems would pop up out of hiding and out of nowhere, my Battery light went on. I'm so happy it happened 10 seconds from my House. I first noticed that my Volts Gauge was reading 10 then the Battery Light went on. Made it Home, parked the Car, and shut it off. Started it and it did start up but was very hesitant. Light was still on. I did also notice that while I was driving it, the Alternator Belt was squealing on and off. I wonder since the Car sat in the cold for a couple weeks without being driven if the belt got so cold and is bad.

                          Well, tweaking should hopefully commence this Weekend.

                          Comment

                          • AntMan401

                            #14
                            UPDATE

                            Just moved my Car to its new Home for the Winter. My Driveway! Its all the way at the back of the Driveway with a Tarp running across the Fences on each side. Nice little homemade Garage.

                            I inspected the Alternator to find out what was wrong and I found the problem. The Alternator Belt is no longer there lol. I donno what the **** happened. Might of been all dry rotted and snapped off.

                            Let the build begin!

                            Comment

                            • AntMan401

                              #15
                              I'm looking at the list of things I want to get done this Weekend and I am having trouble figuring out exactly what I am going to do with this problem. Let me start from the beginning.

                              I have my Water Temp Gauge hooked up via a Greddy Water Temperature Radiator Hose Adapter. You know, the little Adapter that goes in between the Upper Radiator Hose then the sending unit gets screwed into it. I used the Brass Sending Unit that came with the Autometer Phantom Water Temp Gauge. Its screwed into the Adapter and a Power Wire is run from the top of the Sending Unit to the back of the Gauge. At first it never worked. I finally figured out that I had to have a Ground Wire coming from the back of the Gauge then to the Base of the Sending Unit. Then the Gauge started to work. I don't like the way I have the Ground Wire hooked up. I have the Wire stripped, then wrapped around the Base of the Sending Unit and then Taped on with Electrical Tape. The Electrical Tape gets all soft and un sticky with all the heat under the hood and always falls off. I'm trying to figure out how to hook up this Ground Wire but in a much more clean way. I was thinking about having a little metal rod attached to the Base (welded, soldered, whatever works best) then I can just crimp a nice little wire connector to it.

                              Anyone got any ideas?

                              Your probably all wicked confused lol

                              Comment

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